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LED stands for Light Emitting Diode

http://www.howstuffworks.com/led.htm has a very detailed, easy to understand article of the ins and outs of how LEDs works.

A Watt (W) is an electrical unit of power. The higher the wattage the more power the bulb consumes. However LEDs can put out much more light with less watts. A 40W incandescent can easily be replaced with a 6-9W LED.

Lumens are a measure of how much light a bulb puts out. The higher the lumens the brighter the light. Think of it as the volume of light (sort of like gallons is the volume of water). A 100W incandescent bulb puts out around 1600 Lumens, an LED bulb can give you the same lumens with 16-20W, meaning you get the same light with much less power consumption. And less power consumption means more money saved.

The Input voltage is the voltage needed to allow the LED’s to produce light. Voltage is different depending on if its residential service (100-120V sometimes 240V) or commercial service (120-277V). Lucky for you most of Green Light Depot's LED bulbs have an input voltage range of 100-277V.

The beam angle is the angle from the light is that is effectively lit by the LED. Some LED’s that are used for “spot” lighting have smaller beam angle 30 or 60 degrees, usually PAR bulbs. Others LED lights like our tube lights have a wide beam angle of 180, or 240 degrees.

There are many many many types of bulb bases. Your standard screw in light bulb is most likely a E-26 or E-27 aka a Medium Base. E-12 is a candle base often found in chandeliers. For the LED tube lights the the G-13 (two pins on each end of tube) is most common, or Fa8 (single pin one each end of tube). Green Light Depot also carries lights with uncommon bases ( like E40 mogul bases).

In short: CRI stands for Color Rendering index, and ranges in value from 0-100. Typical led values are between 50 and high 90’s Not so short: The color rendering index (CRI), sometimes called color rendition index, is a quantitative measure of the ability of a light source to reveal the colors of various objects faithfully in comparison with an ideal or natural light source. Light sources with a high CRI are desirable in color-critical applications such as photography and cinematography… see full explanation here

The number shown is technically a color. The number is the degree kelvin, which is a universal measurement of light. 3000k – yellowish / white light 4000k – cool white hint of yellow 5000k – white 6000k – bright white daylight

Green Light Depot products are DLC, EnergyStar, UL, CE, LM79, RoHSand ETL certified. Depending on the application, a different certification is needed. Also some of our products are eligible for rebates based on the certification they hold. Also Green Light Depot is in the top 25 manufacturers in the world for DLC certifications.

Trim is the lens that comes on Green Light Depot's lights - clear and frosted trim. If the bulb is going into a fixture or you want the most light possible a Clear Trim is what you're looking for. Frosted trim diffuses the light but can result in up to 10% less light output ( depending on the bulb).In the Image below the left bulb is clear trim and the right is frosted trim.

Depending on the LED light being installed some modifications to the wiring will need to be done. You will need to bypass the ballast for retrofit installations.

For LED retrofits in existing light fixtures, the existing wiring will need to be modified. Depending on the type of bulb you will need to cut the Line and Neutral going into the ballast. If the LED tube light is single end then the all the Line wires on one side of the fixture need to be wired to the Line that was going to the ballast, and all the Neutral lines are wired to the Natural that was going into the ballast. One the other end of the fixture disconnect all wires from the tombstone. If the LED tube light is a dual end / two end then the Line and Neutral going to the ballast must be cut. All the Line wires on one side of the fixture must be connected to the line that was going into the ballast, and disconnect all the Neutrals on that side. On the opposite end all the Neutrals must be wired to the Neutral that was going to the ballast, and all the Line wires must be disconnected on that side. If this doesn't make sense please see the images below:

Single pin, dual end wiring

Double pin, dual end wiring

Double pin, single end wiring

Single end wiring for double pin requires unshunted tombstone

Dual ended wiring can use shunted or unshunted tombstones

Shunted Lamp holders – will have 2 holes (or accept 2 wires) on the unit.

Our bulbs that are double pin and dual ended wiring can use shunted tombstones.

Unshunted Lamp holders – will have (or accept a total of 4 wires) on the unit.

Our bulbs that are double pin and single end wiring need unshunted tombstones

Our bulbs that are double pin and dual ended wiring can use unshunted tombstones.

The Lifespan Rating on the LED bulbs is based on years or hours. -The hour rating is derived from an engineering formula that calculates the estimated amount of operational hours the LED bulb is capable of. -The year rating is determined by assuming the light is on for 3 hours a day every day for a year. 50,000 hours / 3 hours per day = 16,667 days 16,667 days / 365 days per year = 45.6 years - The year rating is determined by assuming the light is on for 24 hours a day every day for a year. 50,000 / 24 hours per day = 2083 days 2083 days / 365 days per year = 5.7 years

Green Light Depot's warranties vary in length. But if the fixture is wired correctly and the bulb stops working during the warranty period, Green Light Depot (GLD) will resolve the issue by replacing the bulb.